“We came to the city, by and by, and drove all through it. Intensely Indian, it was, and crumbly, and moldering, and immemorially old, to all appearance. And the houses – oh, indescribably quaint and curious they were, with their fronts and elaborate lace work of intricate wood-carving, and now and then further adorned with rude pictures of elephants and princes and gods done in shouting colours” – Mark Twain on Vadodara in 1900
Vadodara lies in the semi-arid region of Gujarat, on the banks of Vishwamitri River. The city does well to hide its past beneath the modern houses. The walls of the old Daulatabad Fort aren’t visible anymore. Stories of ancient trading cities of Ankottaka and Vaimpadraka with connections to the Romans is almost forgotten. Vadodara’s history is like the banyan tree (the name Banyan comes from the Gujarati baniyas who did their business under the shades of the huge trees), that that the city gets its name from (Vad in Sanskrit), very old with many trunks, and a lot of the old ones hidden. One just needs to look for it.
The Origin Legends
According to the Skanda Purana, the origins of this city can be traced back to a fascinating legend. In ancient times, there lived a pious Brahmin in Champavati (now known as Champaner), situated in the Shankar Forest (which is now Pavagadh). This Brahmin was deeply devoted to Lord Shiva and resolved to offer his own head to the deity. However, Lord Shiva did not want the Brahmin’s blood to fall upon him. Instead, Shiva sank deep into the earth, creating a vast chasm.
Around the same time, Brahmarishi Vishwamitra had his ashram in the Shankar Forest. One fateful day, Kamdhenu, the holly bovine-goddess and mother of all cows, accidentally fell into the deep gorge created by Lord Shiva. To rescue the cow, Lord Shiva advised Kamdhenu to let milk flow from her udders until she floated back to the surface.
Upon learning of this incident, Vishwamitra requested Himadri (now known as the Himalaya mountain range) to fill in the chasm to prevent further mishaps. Some Puranas even suggest that Himadri instructed one of his sons, Pavak Chakra, to stand at the edge of the gorge. Lord Shiva then ascended this summit and decided to settle in the forest.
As a result of Vishwamitra’s efforts and the divine blessings, the entire region was transformed. A river began to flow through the area, and it was named after Vishwamitra himself. This river, which meanders through the city even today, served as an inspiration for Vishwamitra to compose the Gayatri Mantra.
The history of Vadodara is divided into six periods by Subbarao based on the archaeological excavations done in 1951-52. There is lack of recent studies in the area, and the dates mentioned are best approximations based on artefacts like pottery and coins.
Pre-Historic (Period I: 10,000-3000BP)
The Vishwamitri River system includes three major tributaries: Vishwamitri, Dhadhar, and Jambuva. All three tributaries originate from the Pavagadh hills and Jambughoda forests, meanders through Vadodara and drains into Gulf of Khambat.
Archaeological excavations carried out in 1951-52, along the banks of the Vishwamitri River, have revealed evidence of early prehistoric human settlements. These ancient settlers left behind numerous stone tools, including flakes and retouched microliths made of agate, quartz, and chert. Interestingly, the raw materials for these tools were not locally available, suggesting long-distance trade and early human interaction. This is also validated by the fact that the number of cores are very less. The absence of pottery, agriculture, or animal domestication indicates that these early inhabitants were likely hunters and gatherers, dating back to at least 1000 BCE (~3000BP). Recent studies from Vadnagar, further North of Vadodara, shows continuous settlement from 2754 BP.
They probably caught fish and hunted deers in the nearby forest. Similar evidence of early settlement have also been found from banks of Sabarmiti and Mahi River.
Iron Age (Period I: 3000 to 1900 BP/ 1000BCE to 100 CE)
600 to 300 BCE was the age of Mahajanapadas in India. These were village republics, primarily in North India. After the decline of Harappan civilisation (First Urbanization from 2500 to 1900 BCE), big cities were growing again in India. Between fifth century BCE to third century CE India saw the second urbanisation phase. It was the rise of complex social-political structures, technological advances like burnt brick houses, fortification, extensive use of metals (iron and copper), use of Brahmi script, and early punched mark coinage. There was revival in trade, increase in wealth and improvement in living conditions. A lot of philosophical reforms were taking place around India. This was also the time when the Sramana movements (especially Jainism and Buddhism) were gaining popularity around the country.
Vadodara itself was far away from the nearest known Mahajanapada, Avanti. The Malavas, an ancient Indian tribe, are mentioned in the epic Mahabharata, were probably one of the earliest tribes to settle here. They originally inhabited the Punjab region. When Alexander invaded India, the Malavas migrated southward, eventually settling in the regions of Rajasthan and Gujarat. During the Mauryan period, some Malavas likely established settlements in and around Vadodara (then known as Ankotakka), away from the big cities.
Slowly the village republics were replaced by powerful kingdoms. First the Nanda and then the Mauryas dominated North India. The area around Vadodara was still a quiet village, probably under the Mauryan Kingdom. Mauryan Empire declined during the arid phase followed by invasion of Yavanas or Indo- Greeks.
Around 175 BCE, the Indo-Greeks, led by Demetrius, briefly ruled over this area. He was helped by Appolodotus and Meander. Despite their short-lived rule, this interaction left traces of Greek influence, as seen in artifacts and cultural exchanges.
Ankotakka, situated near present-day Akota, was the first known settlement around Vadodara that sprang up during this time. The name “Ankola” is derived from the Sanskrit word for “eranzhil” trees, which were abundant in the area. The settlers in Ankotakka lived in burnt bricked houses, indicating relative prosperity.
The Bhimdnath Mahadev temple in Akota bears mason marks on its pavement. These marks resemble old Brahmi letters such as Ya, Kra, Chi, and Ga, dating back to the 2nd century BCE, based on similarities with Bhattiprolu and Junagadh scripts.
Ankotakka served as a strategic town due to its location at the crossroads of two vital trade routes: Ujjain to Bharuch and Udaipur to Bharuch via Abu and Vadnagar. The town’s significance extended beyond local trade—it had links to the Roman Empire, as evident from the artifacts unearthed from this age, including bronze jar handle with figure of Greek god Eros dating back to 100CE.
The main port of trading with Greeks and was Barygaza, modern day Bharauch. It was probably the Indo-Greeks who made this a popular port. Ships from Middle East to South East Asia anchored here for trade. The main land routes to Bharauch went through Vadodara, helping in growth of the city as Bharauch became popular.
Ancient Historic Period (Period II: 1900 to 1400 BP / 100 to 600 CE)
100 CE was an interesting phase in Indian history. Genetic evidence suggests that the mixing between peoples of different caste stopped during this period and the caste system started to become more rigid.
In Vadodara we see a progressive decline in the abundance of microliths (small stone tools), and emergence of pottery marking the appearance of settled communities.
Period II primarily features Red Polished Ware (RPW). Initially thought to be influenced by Roman pottery, scholars now believe that RPW was locally created. Additionally, coarse, brown, and black thick pottery with gritty cores was prevalent. Some of these pottery pieces showcased intricate floral and animal designs.
While a lot of activity was happening on the Western bank of Vishwamitri River, on the eastern bank an ancient Jain settlement called Chandanvati (the city of sandalwood) was growing up quietly. In the 2nd century BCE, Raja Chandan of the Dor clan conquered the area and renamed it Viravati (abode of warriors). The presence of banyan trees (referred to as “Vat” in Sanskrit) led to the later name Vatpadraka, signifying the leaf of the banyan tree.
Around 140 CE, Vadodara was conquered by the Kshatrapa King, Rudradaman. Around this time Central Asia was becoming arid and India had good monsoons. This change in climate probably caused the invasion of Sakas (Kshatrapas). This strategic trading location being close to the southern borders of their kingdom, Vadodara experienced the ebb and flow of power between the Kshatrapas and the Satavahanas in the south.
Satavahana King Goutamiputra Satakarni briefly took control of this region in 120 CE, only to be reclaimed by Kshatrapa King Rudradaman 30 years later.
Early Medieval Period (Period IV: 100 to 700 BP/ 1000 to 1300 CE)
Around 400 CE, the Gupta Empire extended its influence over Gujarat. Skandagupta (AD 455-468) ruled Gujarat during this period and issued hundreds of silver coins. Excavations at Akota and Karvan (now Kayavarohan) revealed Gupta-period coins, providing valuable historical insights.
Senapati Bhatarka of the Maitraka clan came to power in this region around AD 470. The Gupta-Maitraka rule was relatively uneventful. Towards the 5th century AD it was known as a center of Jainism and Jain studies.
The township of Ankotakka continued to develop during the rule of the Guptas and the Maitraka Dynasty. The settlement expanded by clearing grazing lands and forests, covering an area of 0.5 to 0.75 square kilometers.
By the 5th century AD, Vadodara became known as a center of Jainism and Jain studies. The Vadodara Museum houses 68 bronze statues of tirthankars (Jain spiritual leaders) recovered from the site, providing valuable insights into the artistry of that era.
Medieval Period (Period III: 1400 to 1000 BP/ 600 to 1000CE)
The boundary between Period II and Period III (~600CE) is marked by a silt layer representing the great flood that resulted in shifting of the city away from the flood zone. Around this phase the monsoons become dominant in the subcontinent. Strong monsoon phase has been reported from 455-56 CE. The flooding of Vishwamitri could be close to that time, however precise dating of the flooding event is unavailable.
In the beginning the people of Ankottaka tried to rebuild and repaired the damaged caused by the frequent flooding of Vishwamitri. A huge brick structure (70ft x 40ft, with long axis in East-West direction) found during excavations, probably a meeting place or a public hall, has been renovated after the floods. Ground level has been raised by 2ft. But in a another major flood the whole building was submerged. The residents were probably warned of the flood, as they left with their belongings. The entire area was vacated before the floods.
The population now shifted to present Kothai area, known as Vadapadraka, on the western bank of Vishwamitri. This period is characterised by Medieval painted pottery.
Aridity increased again from around 600CE. Urban cities collapsed, so did Ankottaka. It again gained prominence during 8th century when the Rashtrakutas made it their administrative headquarters. Svetambara Jainism flourished here under the Rashtrakutas and lot of Jain temples were constructed.
However, by 10th century, Vadapadraka displaced Ankottaka as the urban centre. All that remained in Ankottaka were a few Jain temples.
After the Rashtrakutas, the Western Chalukya ruled for a short time, followed by the Solankis of Anhilwada Patan. One can already find a few Islamic glazed ware and transparent glass bangles during this time, indicating trade contact with Middle East. Bharuch must have remained an important port.
Gadhiya coins have been found towards the end of this period dating to probably 1000CE. Gadhiya coins are degraded forms of Indo-Sassanian coins. They have the kings bust on one side and fire alter on the other. This coins were introduced by White Huns when they invaded India in 5th century during the rule of Skandagupta. Now they have spread across north India, including Gujarat.
Period IV saw increase in monsoon intensity. The Rashtrakutas held sway over the entire region until the middle of the 10th century. However, their rule was eventually uprooted by the Chalukyas of Kalyan. Under the reign of Tailapa II, Vadodara (then known as Ankottaka) came under Chalukyan administration between AD 942 and 1304.
Vadodara continued to be a hub for Svetambara Jainism during this period. Numerous Jain temples were constructed, reflecting the community’s spiritual and cultural prominence. However, this flourishing period was disrupted by the invasion of Alp Khan in 1297 CE.
Archaeological excavations reveal that the Jain community buried their precious images during Alp Khan’s invasion. Unfortunately, many structures were destroyed during the raid, leaving a lasting impact on Vadodara’s landscape. Ankottaka struggled to recover from this devastating attack.
In contrast, Vadapadraka (the present-day Vadodara) continued to thrive. Evidence such as large numbers of roofing tiles, brick bats, and stones indicates a flourishing settlement. The area also witnessed the emergence of Islamic glazed ware, both imported and locally imitated, reflecting trade connections with the Middle East.
In 1298, Nasrat Khan, the General of Allauddin Khan, invaded Gujarat. This invasion further shaped the region’s history and cultural dynamics.
Excavations at the archaeological site in Baroda revealed 13th-century Gadhia coins. Additionally, painted terracotta artifacts featuring human figures and a mango were discovered, providing glimpses into the artistic expressions of that time.
Sultanate Period (Period V: 1300 to 1573 CE)
During the Islamic rule, Vadapadraka (now Vadodara) witnessed significant historical shifts and cultural developments.
Between 1304 and 1344, Vadapadraka fell under the rule of the Delhi Sultanate led by Mohammed bin Tughlaq. However, a rebellion led by Qazi Jalal in 1344 overthrew the Delhi Sultanate’s control. Subsequently, it became the seat of power for the Sultans of Gujarat from 1403 to 1573 CE. Archaeological excavations in 1951-52 unearthed two significant coins: One belonging to Ahmedshah I (1411-41) and another associated with Mahmud Beghra (1469-1511). Despite these changes in rulership, the lifestyle of the people remained relatively stable during this time, as evident from the archaeological records.
From 1391 to 1511, Vadapadraka continued as an important city under the Gujarat Sultanate. Sultan Muzaffar Shah, Sultan Mehmud Begada, and his son Khalilkhan successively reigned during this period.
1396 to 1408 CE saw a devastating famine across India, often called the Durgadevi Famine. It must have left its mark in Vadodara, however, Vadapadraka experienced rapid development soon after when it was granted as a Jagir to Prince Khail Khan (Muzaffar Shah II) by his father, Mahmud Begada (Mahmud Shah I), the Sultan of Gujarat.
Muzaffar Shah II (Khail Khan) constructed the modern fort of Vadodara, also known as Kila-e-Daulatabad. During the 16th century, the fort was surrounded by walls (though they no longer exist today). Four direction gates still stand: Lehripura Gate (West), Champaner Gate (North), Gendi Gate (South), Pani Gate (East).
The Mandvi Gate, located at the exact center of the old walled city, served as a toll collection point for merchants and traders. It was also used for city announcements. The gate was built later by the Marathas.
By the end of the 16th century, even Vadapadraka was abandoned. People likely shifted inside the new citadel of Baroda (Daulatabad), further east. The walled citadel was likely built as protection against invasions and was established by Khalil Khan. The repeated famines occurring during this time could also be a reason as people moved inside the more secure citadel surrounded by water bodies like Chandan Talav (Sur Sagar). Many step wells were also built around Vadodara to counter the water issue.
Mughal Period (Period VI: 1573 to 1734 CE)
During the Mughal rule, Gujarat witnessed significant historical shifts and cultural developments. In 1573, Emperor Akbar finally annexed Gujarat. He granted Vadodara to General Nawab Aurang Khan.
Under Mughal rule, Baroda was governed by the Bibi Nawabs as the state’s governors. The Nawab family traced their lineage back to the distant descendants of the Prophet Muhammad. Qauzi Sayed Nuruddin Husain-Khan founded the Nawab family of Baroda. The area of Pratapgunj, near the Maharaja Sayajirao University, features a specially constructed cemetery for the Nawabs.
Gujarat remained under Mughal control until the mid-18th century. However, the weakening Mughal Empire allowed the Marathas to gain prominence. Starting from 1644, a series of Maratha plunder and invasions occurred in the region.
The Hajira, located on the Makarpura road, is the only known Mughal-period monument in Vadodara. It contains the corporal remains of Kutub-ud-din, tutor of Emperor Akbar’s son Salim, and his son Navrang.
Despite the changing rulers, people continued to live in the citadel. The citadel expanded, first in the southwest direction, and later toward the northwest.
Maratha Period (Period VII: 1734 to 1949 CE)
Between 1664 and 1743, the Marathas primarily focused on raiding and plundering Gujarat to maintain their army. However, from 1734, they began to settle in Baroda, marking a significant shift.
The Gaekwad rule in Baroda commenced when the Maratha general Pilaji Rao Gaekwad conquered the city from the Mughal Empire. Sureshwar Desai and Dala Patel, both locals, played crucial roles in Pilajirao Gaekwad’s successful conquest of Baroda in 1724. Desai’s father, Dabhai Pandya, moved from Ahmedabad to Baroda and worked as a revenue collector for the Desais. Sureshwar Pandya eventually gained prominence and became known as Sureshwar Desai. He also extended the Chandan Talav, that is now know as Sur Sagar after him. Dala Patel, hailing from Padra village near Baroda, also contributed to the city’s transformation. His residence, “Dala Patel ni Pol,” still exists within the walled city. He too became a Desai.
To honor the conquest of Baroda, the Mandvi Gate was constructed in 1736 by Malhara, the Governor of Baroda, at the instance of Damaji, son of Pillaji Gaekwad.
As Maratha power waned, the Arabs tried to assert control of this region. However, they left after the British defeated them. From 1802, a British resident was stationed in Baroda. In 1817-18, a treaty was established between the British and the Gaekwads.
Diwan of Baroda during the time of Maharaja Ganpatrao Gaekwad from 1849 to 1854 was Bhau Saheb Tambekar. He built the iconic building of Vadodara, Tambekarwada. It stands as one of the oldest surviving residential complexes in Vadodara. It has delicate woodwork and intricate paintings.
Maharaja Sayaji Rao III, who ascended the throne in 1875, modernized Baroda significantly:
• He introduced compulsory primary education.
• Established a library system.
• Founded the Maharaja Sayajirao University.
• Notably, he offered a scholarship to B.R. Ambedkar to study at Columbia University.
The magnificent Laxmi Vilas Palace was constructed in 1980. It is four times the size of Buckingham Palace, and remains the most popular tourist destination in Vadodara.
Post Independence Period (Modern: 1949 to present day)
India gained independence in 1947. 2 years later Baroda was merged into Bombay State. However, significant changes occurred with the formation of Maharashtra and Gujarat states on May 1, 1960. This reorganization shifted Baroda from Bombay state to Gujarat.
Early English travelers and merchants referred to Vadodara as “Brodera”. Over time, the name evolved to Baroda. In 1974, the city’s name was officially changed to Vadodara. This change reflected the city’s cultural identity and historical significance.
Vadodara is now the third-largest city in Gujarat. Known for its rich heritage, educational institutions, and cultural vibrancy, Vadodara continues to grow at a rapid pace. The city embraces a peaceful atmosphere, making it an attractive place to live and work.
References
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