Our 2021 road trip from Delhi to Vadodara took us on a fascinating detour through majestic Rajasthani palaces. The glimpse into royal life was unforgettable, so when I discovered a similar opportunity in Gujarat, I was instantly enthralled. But this time, the allure wasn’t just about grandeur; it was about unearthing the little-known history of Santrampur, a town in Mahisagar District.
Whatever little fame Santrampur has is for Shri Joraver Vilas, a hidden gem nestled amidst the fading embrace of the Aravallis. Built in 1926 by the visionary Maharaja Saheb Shri Joraver Singhji, this palatial villa has transformed into a haven for discerning travelers. While the Art Deco embrace offers a captivating blend of old-world charm and modern comfort, I couldn’t help but be surprised at its relative obscurity compared to its Rajasthani counterparts.
This unique retreat promises an experience that transcends mere lodging. Imagine soaking in the serenity of a serene lake, exploring the majestic surroundings steeped in history, and immersing yourself in the captivating narrative of Santrampur. Shri Joraver Vilas isn’t just a hotel; it’s a portal to a bygone era, whispering tales of royalty while pampering you with contemporary indulgence. The details about how to book your stay here is in the latter part of the post.
Why a kingdom here of all places, one wonders.
The story of Santrampur, earlier known as Brahampuri, begins in the 11th century, amidst the turmoil of medieval India. King Zalam Sinh of the Malwa dynasty established a kingdom in Jhalod, but his reign was short-lived.
Padma Shri for her efforts to revive and promote the authentic style of Ghoomar, a folk dance form of Rajasthan.
Driven by conflict, his sons, Sant and Limdev, were forced to seek refuge in the Bhil-dominated hills. Undeterred by their hardships, Sant and Limdev persevered.
They spent years building their power and influence, eventually founding their own kingdom in 1258 with Sunth (later renamed Sant) as its capital, on the banks of Suki river. Sunth was around 30kms west of Jhalod. This small state, later known as Sant State, rose to prominence as a princely state during British rule in western India. State enjoyed a hereditary salute of 9 gun and 11 gun local salute.
Rana Sant, the first ruler of Santrampur, was known for his ambition and vision. In the 13th century, he commissioned the construction of the magnificent Raj Mahal. This imposing six-story palace, perched atop a hill, was a unique blend of Rajputana, Mughal, and European architectural styles. Sadly, this once-grand residence of the royal family now lies in ruins, a silent testament to the passage of time.
While the Raj Mahal stands as a reminder of the past, another royal property uphill offers a glimpse into a more recent era. The Hawa Mahal, a charming boutique palace built in 1875 by Maharana Pratap Singhji, provides breathtaking panoramic views of the valley below. In this ruin one can find remains of beautiful sculptures, torans and possible remains of a temple.
RanaSant established the kingdom of Santrampur in 1255 or 1258. He claim to belong to Parmar clan of Rajputs, the lineage of legendary raja Vikramaditya of Ujjain.
Inspired by the Kal Bhairav mandir of Ujjain, he built a Kal Bhairav temple here in 13th century.
Just like the original temple, Alcohols and meat are offered to the god for wishes to come true.
Liquor is offered to the temple deity as one of the five tantric ritual offerings known as panchamakara: madya (alcohol), maansa (meat), meena or matsya (fish), mudra (gesture or parched grain) and maithuna (sexual intercourse). This is one of the rare temples where animal sacrifice is still allowed I am told. Apart from madya and maansa, rest of the offerings are just symbolic now.
During Navratri, a unique tradition unfolds in the village of Santrampur. Members of the Rawal tribe come together to pay homage to the Kal Bhairav temple, where a chosen individual from the tribe undertakes a challenging penance for the well-being of the entire village.
Five days before Navratri begins, the chosen member embarks on a strict fast. Then, on the first day of the festival, he ascends a towering yogi structure (image). His first step, while climbing, is placed on the shoulders of the King. This symbolic gesture represents that the King is taking responsibility of his subjects on his shoulders. This ritual has been happening since 13th century.
For five grueling days, the chosen devotee remains on the platform, enduring the elements and abstaining from food or water. This act of self-sacrifice is believed to bring blessings and prosperity to the village.
On the fifth day, with the support of the king’s shoulder again, he descends from the platform. Throughout the Navratri period, his family and villagers gather at the temple, offering their support and prayers.
Also read:
https://subhrashis.com/the-mystery-of-jaisalmer-a-travelogue/
The entire land of the village of Sant, now Santrampur, belongs to the royalty. But people have built houses and are allowed to stay there without rent. The villagers, a mixed community of both Hindus and Muslims, had only praise for the kings.
The dead king’s memories are preserved in Santram Group of Chhatris just in the side of Zalol-Ahmedabad highway. This is typical of Rajput kings. According to Rajput tradition these Chhatris, or umbrellas, were taken away from Indra, the king of devas, by Krishna and given to Rajputs.
Not far from it you can visit the Panchratna Mandir, which is a complex of 14th and 15th century Shiva and Vishnu temple ruins.
The current residents, great-grandson Paranjayaditya and his wife Mandakini, have transformed their stately home, the Shri Joraver Vilas, into a haven for travelers longing for an authentic royal experience. Five luxurious rooms and suites occupy the ground floor, each opening onto a central courtyard that whispers stories of a bygone era.
The package details are given below. It includes couple of boat rides on the palace lake. there are additional chargeable activities on request like jeep safari, countryside excursion, local dance performances, etc.
The food here is awesome and can be curated to your preference – Jain, Swami Narayan, Vegetarians, Vegan, Vaishnav, and Non-Vegetarian.
How to reach:
Ahmedabad – Balasinor – Lunawada – Santrampur – 186 kms – 3 hours.
Dungarpur – Saraswa – Kadana – Santrampur – 90 kms – 1 hr. 30 mins.
Indore – Dhar – Jabua – Dahod – Jhalod – Santrampur 250 kms – 4 hours.
Baroda – Halol – Godhra – Lunawada – Santrampur – 140 kms – 3 hours.
Contact Resort:
Shri Joraver Vilas – Santrampur.
Indo West Tours {Marketing & Reservations}
202, Hrishikesh II,
Near Havmor Restaurant,
Navrangpura, Ahmedabad
Gujarat. {India} PIN – 380009
Ph – +917926447075
Mobile – +919824072075
Email – reservations@royalsantrampur.com
Webpage – www.royalsantrampur.com
Palaces and ruins are not the only things you will see here. Santrampur is surrounded by the Bhil tribes and you can interact with them and have tea with them.
The Statue of freedom fighter and legendary reformist tribal leader Bhagawan Birsa Munda has been installed in the hill top of Kadana to honor the local Bhil tribes. The statue was vandalised in September 2022, ahead of the State assembly election, and has now been reinstalled.
This is also the only place from where you will get the best view of the Kadana Dam, an earthen and masonry dam. The dam was constructed between 1979 and 1989. If you look closely you would be able to see the folds of Aravalli. The panoramic view of the dam must not be missed. But there was one more rare attraction that brought me here.
The Aravalli Supergroup of rocks has one of the rarest geological wonders in such old rocks: the Eddy Current Markings. These markings appear on the recrystallized quartz arenite layer of the Lunavada Group.
The age of the Aravalli Supergroup varies depending on the specific rock layer being studied. The oldest rocks date back to 3.2 billion years ago, while younger layers range from 2.5 to 1.5 billion years old.
The Eddy Current Markings are formed in these group of rocks by the movement of a small branch of a bigger log (note: plants were yet to evolve) or a pebble in a stream’s eddy current or vortex. They look like spirals with whirl balls in the middle.
The spirals can go clockwise or anticlockwise, showing different eddy directions. The whirl balls are the vortices themselves. The whirl balls are isolated, meaning the eddies did not move when these structures were made.
There are also reel marks near the eddy markings that point to the local current direction. The eddy current markings, whirl balls and rill marks in the Aravalli rocks of the Kadana Formation tell us more about how these rocks were deposited.
Trip to Santrampur is a diverse mix of history, luxury, nature, archaeology, temples and geology that you can visit in just a couple of days. It’s worth it.
